It´s my last day in Pana. I am so happy because my delayed luggage arrived. Yesterday I crossed the lake to San Pedros and San Juan. Met a great Parisian woman named Aurelie. She is travelling Central America for 3 months. The villages we saw were lovely - set into the hillsides with lots of churches and cobblestones. San Juan was especially nice. Saw villagers fishing, harvesting what looked like rice, coffee and corn. It's the only community there that isn't set up for tourism so it was really pleasant.

It has been a real blessing to start my holiday here. It is small plus Jessica has been wonderful. Other than a week in Cuba, this is my first experience seeing people struggle with poverty. Also, I don´t speak Spanish. I struggle with fears and anxiety yet these few days have given me a chance to get more comfortable.

I took two Spanish lessons with a wonderful woman named Sandra. Already after the first lesson I was able to form very basic sentences. It feels really good. I´m also getting more used to the bartering and noise in Pana. It's a whole other way of shopping here and I feel overwhelmed by the pressure. I have to walk past many market stalls to get from my bungalow to the centre of town. There are tuk-tuks (glorified golf carts) racing everywhere, as well as motorcycles and cars. People are trying to sell stuff all over. There are beautiful handicrafts - weaving and leatherwork. Stunning colours!

Lake Atitlan is losing tourists and this is worrying for the people here. Very recently, the lake suddenly became very sick. There is green/brown algae floating on top and swimming is forbidden. This is because open sewage is pumped into it, plus biodegradable soaps are unavailable - and too expensive if they were. The government apparently isn´t motivated to address this so it´s very frustrating for people here.

Tomorrow I´m off to Antigua for a few days. I´m excited about this because it sounds like a fun place. Lots to do and see! I´m hoping to hike up to a live volcano...Will keep you posted :-)